Lost in the Lanes is a welcoming, contemporary and comfortable spot in one of the twisty-turny alleyways that make up Brighton’s historic Lanes. Opened in 2017, it is owned and operated by Natalie Demitriou. There is floor to ceiling windows and antique mirrors which drench the interior with light and sunshine, all the better for you to appreciate the feast laid out before you; Your traditional yet exceptional Full English, toasted banana bread with miso butter and honeycomb. Or beetroot cured chalk stream trout with gooseberry compote and caper berry dill. Does any of that float your boat? Well, Natalie’s desert island food of choice is tomatoes and bread, but knowing her, it will be the best tomatoes and bread you’ve ever tasted.

And that’s Lost in the Lanes in a nutshell; quality, simple ingredients turned into imaginative dishes with a twist, beautifully presented.

What made you set up on your own?

Natalie was a speech language therapist who lived in New Zealand for many years before settling in Brighton with her husband and three children. “I’d daydreamed about going into business for a long, long time, but it was a gentle nudge from my brother to take the plunge that tipped me over the edge. Otherwise, I wouldn’t have done it.”

Can you remember the moment you decided to open your own restaurant?

“Yes, I sat down for over an hour and made a list of pros and cons.” Natalie’s main conflict was her three young children, who were five, seven and nine at the time. “It would mean lots of time away from them, but I believed seeing their mother active, passionate and involved in life would benefit them more.”

How would you describe your relationship with your business right now?

This gets a laugh, “I am fully and completely immersed in it. I do every part of it still.” Lost in the Lanes is, thankfully, according to Natalie, a daytime restaurant that closes at a reasonable hour.  “I haven’t got to the point where I can remove myself to work on bigger picture stuff, but I am getting closer, and that’s exciting. I don’t feel quite confident yet, but because I know this place inside out, I’ll be fine by the time I can do it.”

When was it at its worst? What was happening then?

The first year was the most challenging. Natalie was inexperienced and, like everyone in hospitality, at the mercy of her staff. “I had no skills or experience and no reputation or customer base. Over time it got busier but easier.”

The pandemic brought hospitality to a screeching halt, but Brighton is fortunate to occupy a tourist bubble, so business has been brisk since restrictions have been lifted. “I work every day, and it’s exhausting, but I love it. Would I have opened a restaurant if I’d known how much work it would be? I don’t know, but I get such a buzz out of it and I am an owner-operator. It’s on me.”

Natalie has always loved great food, and you would think that enjoyment may have dimmed since she’s been serving it up day in and day out for the past five years. “I dream of food and love being around people and feeding them great food. It’s not the food I would choose, but we are driven by what our customers want to eat.” There is another string to the restaurant’s bow, however, as it also caters to events with more latitude for creativity. “We are known for contemporary, modern cuisine, mainly brunch and breakfast.” She’s selling herself short here; the menu is elevated and well thought out. Natalie and her chef source the best ingredients as locally as possible, presenting simple dishes beautifully presented and delicious.

What advice would you give to another owner who’s feeling disillusioned?

“I’m not sure I have an answer. The pandemic was inconceivable, but I believe there is opportunity in every situation. There is good in there. The pandemic pushed me to do things differently, pop-ups, stuff like that. You have to roll with it.”

What keeps you connected to your business?

Without question, it comes back to the same three ingredients; great food, hungry customers, and full stomachs. Making delicious food, opening the doors to the people, and feeding them with great joy and gusto is what Natalie does.

Who or what keeps you going in tough times?

The hospitality industry eats obstacles for breakfast. “There are lots of them, daily, and it’s brutal. You’re on your feet for hours, it’s an adrenalin rush, so you need to be able to cope with the highs and then the lows. I couldn’t do it without my husband and family. You’re firefighting daily.”

What do you love about working for yourself?

Running a business is like a roller coaster love-hate relationship. “I didn’t know if I could work for myself. But I’ve grown hugely, from someone who had little confidence to find myself five years on. I’m not a professional restauranteur, but I am running my own restaurant when I never thought I’d be able to.”

There’s an apt quote from Rudyard Kipling’s poem ‘If’ running along one wall in gold type.

“If you can meet Triumph with Disaster and treat those two impostors just the same.”

That’s running a restaurant for you; the ingredients aren’t to your standards, or they don’t turn up at all! Staff call in sick or don’t turn up at all! All fires must be extinguished because your doors will open, and if you’re as good as Lost in The Lanes, the people will come.